Placing screed step by step with the Staenis grid
Complete manual

Step 1

It is of course recommended to start on as flat a surface as possible. This is not always obvious on site. Nevertheless, it is recommended to respect the flatness as much as possible. If sprayed PUR has been installed, it must first be sanded flat.

Note: the standard grid can accommodate a height difference of 4.5 cm, it can be adjusted between 4.5 and 9 cm. It is therefore important to first check the highest and lowest point of the screed. Also view the complete floor structure and determine the height of the finished floor. In this way you can be sure that the thickness of the screed can be maintained at all times with the Staenis grid.

With more than 9 cm you must first place a filling layer with screed or insulation screed. Then a screed with Staenis grid is placed on top.

Step 2

You can ensure that the water and electrical pipes are not fully anchored to the concrete floor. This makes it possible to move a pipe while placing the screed and place a leg at that location. With underfloor heating, the underfloor heating pipes are placed just tight enough to not be able to move for the same reason.

The slats can be sawn out at any time, with a saw or angle grinder, to allow pipes to pass. Always leave 1.5 cm from the top of the lath, as the grid is also the reinforcement.

Step 3

Minimise overlaps when installing utilities. If this is the case, first provide a filling screed. This is to obtain an even thickness of the screed and therefore a higher quality.

Step 4

Make sure that all connections to the walls with the screed are possible. Ideally, this should be deeper than the plaster and be nicely vertical. If this is not yet done, it is recommended to cut it off before proceeding to the next step.

Step 5

It is important to start with a clean surface. Objects such as nails, sharp objects, etc. can injure you when screeding.

Step 6

Always place two layers of plastic just under the screed. This protects the insulation against moisture, so that it does not lose its insulating performance. The plastic layer will also ensure that the screed can slide over the insulation to a minimum during expansion due to temperature differences or contraction.

Tip: If necessary, attach the plastic to the walls using tape or a nail for smooth installation.

Step 7

Place expansion tape, with a height greater than the screed thickness itself, around the walls. This is cut off after placing the floor finish. Some expansion tapes include a self-adhesive part, others are still adhered with tape, but not with a nail. This could prevent the expansion and contraction of the screed.

Step 8 (if screed has underfloor heating)"]

Place the underfloor heating on top of the plastic layer with a laying distance between 10 and 15 cm. Allow a circle per 10 m². Carry out the installation and connection of the underfloor heating according to the manufacturer's technical data sheet.

Step 9 (if screed has underfloor heating)"]

If a leg just ends up on top of an underfloor heating pipe, this is no problem at all. You can place the leg perfectly on the underfloor heating pipe, of course the adjusting screw will be screwed back in for a large part, compared to the other legs.

Step 10

Determine the location where you want to begin screeding. It is best to start furthest away from an opening and parallel to the wall. Try not to lock yourself in a corner of a room.

Step 11

Place the laser where it is not in the way or as little as possible, so that you do not run into it or move it accidentally. If necessary, place some screed under the laser leg to prevent springs or vibrations from the insulation. Also make sure that you have to move the laser as little as possible, because every time you move it there will be a small deviation on your pass. First place the laser device flat, then adjust it to height and let the device level itself. Determine one or more reference points (take into account the height of the finished floor) and carry out a check in several places.

Step 12

You have several options for using a laser. A handy tip is to work with a wooden block. Two wooden blocks that are perpendicular to each other (easy to make yourself). You determine your reference line and place it on the wooden block. In other words, if the line on the wooden block and the laser line are perfectly aligned, then the bottom of the block of wood is the top of your screed.

Step 13

Protective clothing: knee protection is essential when placing a screed, because screed material that comes into prolonged contact with the skin can cause burns.

Protective clothing: gloves that are moisture-resistant are important to avoid all contact between the screed material and the skin as much as possible.

Step 14

Provide yourself with good tools to carry out the screeding work as smoothly as possible. Such as a ramp, knee pads, gloves, laser, spirit level, screwdriver, long screeding iron (60 cm, 1.8mm thick), large plastic sanding board, trowel, shovel, bucket, barrow, mixer, tub, folding rule, pencil.

Step 15

Click slats and legs together and build 1 or 2 rows with them. Start in the chosen corner, where you first want to start screeding, with a double row of grids, parallel to the wall. Try to place the grid, visually, as straight as possible. This will make it easier for you to work.

Step 16

Unless the space is narrower than 110 cm, e.g. in a corridor, it is recommended you place a complete grid (50 x 50 cm) centrally and shorten the slats on the left and right sides. This way you always have two guides to scrape on. This enables you to work more efficiently and flatness is better guaranteed.

Step 17

Hardly any space will perfectly fit the lengths of the slat. That is why the bar can always be shortened to any length, using a handsaw. The bar can also be broken by breaking it on your knee or with an angle grinder.

Attention: make sure you have the necessary knee and eye protection!

Step 18: Standard click system"]

This is used to create normal compartments measuring 50 x 50 cm and ensures a solid connection.

Step 19: Click system side slat"]

This allows a shortened slat to be supported by a leg.

Step 20: Click system at the end of the slat"]

This ensures a connection between the shortened slat and the connecting slat. As a result, two shortened slats offer each other support so that they remain upright while dragging the screed. Tip: the leg only clicks in 1 direction.

Step 21: Connection angle"]

In a corner you may omit two slats and one leg as long as the compartment or division does not exceed 60 cm x 70 cm. The two walls ensure the distribution of the screed. This allows you to save on material and still deliver a high-quality screed.

Step 22: Wall connection"]

As described in the previous step, the wall divides the screed, and you do not have to place unnecessary slats parallel to the wall. However, it is still advisable to connect two legs with a connecting slat.

Step 23: Connection object in/on the wall"]

Make sure that the grid is fitted as closely as possible to the walls.

Note: make sure that the compartments do not become larger than 60 x 70 cm.

Step 24: Connection object in the middle of the space"]

Connect the slats as close as possible to the object to create divisions again and to reinforce the screed.

Note: do not forget to place an expansion band around all objects in the room. Connect the slats as closely as possible.

Step 25

Connection to an expansion joint: Position the grid as you would to connect it to a wall, but without connecting slats. Up to 200 m², no expansion joints need to be placed in the screed. However, if the access way is smaller than 110 cm, an expansion joint is best placed with an expansion band that you place upright between two grid surfaces.

Step 26

Adjust the height of the grid with a screwdriver (Tip: wooden block). If sprayed with PUR or acoustic mat as substrate, first place screed material in grids, only then adjust the height to avoid sagging when scraping. Adjust the leg upwards using a screwdriver. This can be done with a screwdriver with a cross or flat head or with an Allen key. Repeat this step over and over to further adjust the height of the grille.

Step 27

Make sure that the Staenis grid fits against the wall as closely as possible. There may be a maximum of 5 cm between the Staenis grid and the wall. This is the distance that is also allowed to dam the sides with the foot if necessary. Only do this on the sides against the wall. Do not dam the screed with the feet in the grids as this can cause the grid to be pressed into the underlying insulation, causing height differences.

Note: As soon as you exceed this maximum dimension, the screed may 'dish/cup' again.

Step 28

• Place any excess in the grid.
• Please note: always place the first row of grids with great care as they are still loose.
• Distribute the screed evenly and dam.
• The pressed screed extends above the grid.
• Take a straight lath and grind the screed on the top of the grid.
• Sprinkle the screed lightly and scrape so that all holes are rubbed closed.
• After placing a double row, click on a row of slats again and repeat the previous steps.
• For good bonding strength to the floor finish, it is recommended to go over the screed with a screeding iron of at least 50 cm long.

Step 29

If you wish to split the screed work over several days, it is recommended to click in the next row of slats. If screed remains in the click system, this may mean that the click system will no longer work as soon as the screed has dried.

Note: Try to finish as much as possible per compartment. The photo shows an indication of the click of the next slat, not of the finish per compartment.